This year, the African fashion scene is graced with a new daring collection from Lukabi. A fashion brand that has pledged to revamp the industry with designs which blend sophistication with practicality. Their philosophy as a brand is not just about expressing bold ideas, but meeting clients’ needs halfway through functional features. As Lukabi usher in a new era as a brand, the responsibility of steering their vision continues to rest on Lukman Abioye Ayorinde’s shoulders.
Here’s a modern-looking top and bottom ensemble with certain compelling features. The top comes in a catchy, bright orange colour, serving as the dominant pigmentation for the entire outfit. Colour in design is an art in itself. And the designer’s clever choice of colours speaks to his mastery. The cotton-woven fabric soaks up the colour, bringing in a vivid visual to the overall design.
A square, wide neckline gives the top a firm and controlled outlook, offering the outfit a serious vibe. But on closer observation, it also strikes an acute balance with the hemline of the palazzo-styled trousers. Opting for a sleeveless top further contributes to the clean look it aims to embody. Even the shoulder straps are so straightforward that they are concise and unassuming.
But the slit below the top is one feature that seems inconsistent with its artistic flow. Not because it’s included as a feature, but instead, due to its exaggerated length. In essence, the overbearing slit looks more disruptive to the design than it is merited. Considering the attention to detail displayed in this outfit, the slit seems more like a slip of the hand mistake than a deliberate feature. Additionally, two small square pockets would add a cute detail to the top while also scoring points in functionality.
The skirt in this outfit provides a sharp contrast to the top, a well-executed design that delicately mixes adventure with nationality. The colour, a dull-looking earthly brown, plays second fiddle to the outfit, but it’s obviously intentional. The brown colour not only moderates the brightness of the orange top, but also sets the stage for the features embedded in the skirt.
The wide-legged, flowy choice for the skirt not only showcases the depth of the designer’s creativity but also his sense of danger. For instance, the fluidity of the skirt clashes with the uneven hemline, bordering on caution and carelessness. But it’s so nuanced that it’s impossible not to perceive it as brilliant. The crepe fabric ensures that the skirt maintains its form, which in this case, is the shape of a folded napkin.
But like the top, it lacks the sense of awareness to take the design over the finish line without any disruptions. Though the hemline has a nice touch to it, the sheer size makes it look overblown and unnecessary. Reducing the width of the hemline would have enhanced the luxe style of the appearance.
Overall, the outfit looks the part, especially with the curated taste that underlines the designer’s creative choices. The yin and yang approach to balancing the two extremes of the design gives the outfit a philosophical meaning. But more control would have added a trendy quality to the design, giving it a signature status in the industry.
This outfit is a two-piece ensemble with a net overlay that momentarily shifts attention to itself. At first, the outfit seems like a straightforward and structured delivery, but then it reveals itself as a multilayered design compressed into simplicity.
The top is a blouse made with Ankara printed fabric, the image of a heady princess serving as a foreshadowing of the design. The wide square neckline is effective in withdrawing into the background, giving the collarbone a prominent look for expression. This is a rare component in the fashion design industry. Most outfits either impose their features on the wearer or abandon them to pick up the slack. But this neckline is different. It’s more of a team player, working together with the collarbone to create a smart, conservative appearance.
The sleeves are short and sweet. But it’s puffed, giving it a voluminous outlook. But then they are gathered at the hem, spicing up the design with drama and steam. The length of the sleeves is an interesting creative choice. The idea behind the short sleeves is to make the top as small and cute as possible.
However, it made the design a bit dogmatic rather than aesthetically pleasing. Elbow-length sleeves worked better to even out the puffy look. But with the short sleeves, the puffed effects appear more like symptoms of constipation, not a well-thought-through feature. In addition, the top stops just above the waist, as if shy to stay consistent with the cute outlook. This leaves behind a midriff gap that looks just right before the skirt. While the petite and cute appearance of the top can be applauded for its mastery in conciseness, the over-bloated sleeves once again raise the question of how little details can slip through the designer’s purview.
The skirt is made with the same Ankara fabric with beautiful motifs. But what’s more imposing is the bright blue net overlay that screams for attention. This is a rare creative expression that challenges how we observe reality and, more importantly, beauty.
They say, ‘beauty is in the eyes of the beholder,’ but it seems the net leaves no room for such ideologies. You either love the net or you hate it. In this case, love is the more sensible inclination as the tone of the colour wields a certain power of its own. Of course, the overlaying net has no merits in terms of functionality. That would be the job of the skirt relegated to the background. But what the net lacks in functionality, it makes up for in creative unpredictability.
However, the net’s free-flowing poses a unique problem that cannot be ignored. Redundancy. The net is beautiful and all, but does it have to be blowing in the wind? This is an easy No. It would have been a masterpiece if it were pinned to the skirt instead of giving it a mind of its own. Part of the logic behind the free-flowing net is its length, which leads to the second shortcoming. The skirt and the overlay having the same length would not only give it a sharp outlook, but also a unique, creative expression that would make it a trend.
The only dress in this collection is a knee-length, A-line outfit with a measured flow in its shape and structure. It’s easily the masterpiece of this collection. The rhythm between colours, navy blue and crimson red, is not a complex Taylor Swift song, but a simple lullaby powerful enough to lull a crying baby to sleep. It not only delivers on sophistication but maximises functionality. Therefore, its place as the pillar of the collection is well deserved. The fabric is satin, which gives the colour a glossy look.
Starting with the signature wide, square neckline that looks as professional and unambiguous as a military uniform. But the neckline is wide enough to offer a feminine quality to it that’s compelling to the eyes. The shoulder-length sleeves are puffed and gathered at the hem. The contours they produce add a different dynamic to the upper part of the dress. Its contrast with the wide, square neckline couldn’t be more striking as they compete for dominance. But it’s a satisfying stalemate.
The bow at the centre of the dress is the icing on the cake, or in this case, the wrapping on the gift. It looks simple, but it adds more consciousness to the design. The dress would function without a bow, but this is more about evoking feelings that push the boundaries of sensibilities in fashion.
This outfit might have passed for a perfect score, but it’s not quite there yet. With the buttons that start below the bow and run down to the hem, the designer has taken things too far. Perhaps, there’s beauty in extravagance, but making it more daunting gives it cadence, not sloppiness. Unfortunately, the buttons appear to be a sloppy extravagance no one needs. A zip at the backside would have made the dress practical enough. However, the buttons are not only pointless but also misguided. The buttons themselves are gorgeous, but they seem out of place on the dress itself.
In conclusion, this is a successful collection that delivers on elegance and functionality. In fact, the creative choices displayed consistently in each outfit prove the immense talent Lukman has in the fashion industry. With Lukabi, the future of fashion in Africa is definitely in safe hands. However, there’s room for massive improvement, especially in areas such as paying attention to detail and exercising shrewdness in applying creative choices. Not all creative choices work for a single outfit. Discerning between fitting and mismatched features is the key to the greatness Lukabi is yet to become. But with some practice and diligence, such lofty improvement can be achieved in no time. Lukman is definitely a designer to watch out for.
