New Year At Nosy Be

Continued..

Parents who had twins had to abandon them or they themselves were banished from the community. The practice was legislated against in 1982 but old habits die hard. So, Fatma became an advocate for the extermination of this evil practice. She set up a settlement in support of abandoned twins and their parents at the twin village in Mananjary. The settlement received support from funds she raised and her earnings.

Fatma demonstrated courage by ignoring the local “fady” or taboo on twin curse in spite of insinuations of harm to befall her. She told the story of her navigating the Pangalanes canal from Mananjary to Fanivelona to attend the celebration of the oldest twins living in the community, thirty years after the abolition of the “fady kabana”. She was warned not to undertake the journey that would upset the ancestors. Determined, she embarked on the journey but got lost in the body of waters with two snakes swimming along on both sides of her boat. It seemed the ancestors had sealed her fate but she completed the journey several hours late.

Similarly, she demonstrated courage not long after she was appointed FIFA Secretary-General by standing up to Theresa May as British Prime Minister over British soccer players wearing poppies (deemed a political symbol) at FIFA matches in memory of British fallen heroes. She had argued that others also have heroes and Remembrance Days and should we all wear insignias to the football pitch. Nigeria changed its own Remembrance Day to January 15th as opposed to the British November 11th. If Britain can wear it, why shouldn’t Nigerians, Thais and 54 African Countries? After all, they say what is good for the Goose is good for the Gander. But then, the reality of international politics is well put in George Orwell’s Animal Farm: “All Animals are equal, but some are more equal than others”.

Unfortunately, for the twins’ settlement at Mananjary, Cyclone Batsirai in early February 2022 wiped out the settlement. I understand it’s currently being gradually rebuilt. Between January and March last year, 5 cyclones hit Madagascar resulting in 123 fatalities and huge losses in material resources for a poor country.

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January 1st was much of dining and relaxing. A sumptuous beach-side lunch at the invitation of Fatma as well as a boat ride to a nearby Island to collect shells. Seeing sunset on Mount Passot was exciting and spectacular.

January 2nd, 2023 provided the opportunity I had been waiting for: interaction with nature at Lemur Park or Lemuria land. Most maps of Africa do not easily show many Islands adjoining the big Island of Madagascar, including Nosy Be on the north west portion. There are several biological species that are unique to Madagascar with the most popular being the Lemur – a beautiful type of monkey. The Lemurs were all over the place even before we entered the park. I had beautiful pictures of different species of Lemurs: Dancing Lemur, Browned Lemur; Crowned Lemur etc.

There were Ylang Ylang trees all over. Our first stop was at the Ylang Ylang factory that was established by an Indian family in 1889. The flowers are picked. I was informed that 500 kg of the flowers mixed with 300 litres of water to provide 12 litres of oil. This oil, is reportedly the base product for some perfume brands.

It was interesting to see a Tortoise named: Napoleon, said to be 212 years old in a lethargic state as Bonaparte 180 years old was close-by Josephine, said to be 80 years old. We moved on to see the Dancing Lemur only to be jolted with some loud sound. My guide asked us to rush back and see Bonaparte and Josephine making love. Why do animals, including humans, make involuntary sounds while in the process? Well, I was able to have a video recording of what was left of the copulation. I chose to carry what I think is a huge panther chameleon. The claws produced a scratchy feeling I did not quite enjoy. There were many other reptiles, Iguana, Crocodiles, Boa Constrictor etc.

A Sakalava (one of eighteen ethnic groups in Madagascar) Queen planted a Ficus – Banyan tree that has spread into a huge grove covering some 5,000 sq. metres. Buddha had reportedly received inspiration under a Banyan tree. The roots come from up the tree like threads to touch the ground in order to become roots properly so called. But how was the first tree planted? The Sakalava people are Animists and not Buddhists. So, I visited the grove where people express wishes. It is relieving to see tourists engaging and enjoying the allure around the relatively calm Indian Ocean again, after the Covid-19 pandemic.

The first and only time I had a massage was in 1994. I never thought I would again until January 3rd on the way to the airport. It was pleasant. Trying to have lunch at the hotel where my wife and I as well as our host had massage were four young Yoruba ladies chatting away with their funny Oyinbo accent.

*Babafemi A. Badejo, author of a best-seller on politics in Kenya among other books is a former Deputy Special Representative of the UN Secretary-General for Somalia, and currently Professor of Political Science and International Relations at Chrisland University, Abeokuta, NIGERIA.